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Terry de Havilland
TERRY DE HAVILLAND has carved a career out of making disco-worthy shoes. "I can honestly say that my first memory is of shoes; platform shoes with ankle straps worn by my mother and made by my father, the house was always full of them. I guess you can say that shoes are in my psyche," says de Havilland, who began his fashion career at the age of five working in the workshop of his parents' shoe company, Waverley Shoes.
In 1957, he cut his first pair of shoes for the family business while on leave from the National Service, going on to design his first pair in 1960. A hit with the buyers, he kicked his career off in 1964 when his designs were featured in then-fashion magazine Queen. In 1969, he designed his coloured snakeskin three-tiered wedge - which quickly earned him fans in the shape of Bianca Jagger and Bette Midler. De Havilland opened his first store, called Cobblers to the World, in 1972.
During the Seventies, he created Tim Curry's shoes for the Rocky Horror Show as well as putting his own spin on the stiletto for Zandra Rhodes. In 1973, the Margaux wedge was born (you know the one - fastens around the ankle, strappy across the toes, on a platform). By 1980, de Havilland was making over 800 pairs of shoes a day for worldwide sale. He set up a new label called Kamikazi, which was designed especially for punks and Goths. De Havilland met his wife, Liz, in 1990 and the Terry de Havilland name was beginning to crop up again on the fashion landscape. He created the shoes for Paco Rabanne and Anna Sui's runway shows in 1997 as well as designing the footwear for BAFTA-award winning film The Velvet Goldmine and producing Angelina Jolie's boots for the Tomb Raider film. The same year, he opened up Cobblers to the World in Camden - where customers included Marilyn Manson and Dita Von Teese. In 2002, de Havilland decided to close the store and focus on re-launching the brand. In 2006, he was nominated as Accessory Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards. An online couture service was launched in 2009 and in June of 2010, he was awarded with the Draper's Lifetime Achievement Award.
Autumn/winter 2010-11 has seen the re-launch of the mainline collection. De Havilland is also a professor at the University of the Arts London.
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Hume was born in 1962 in Tenterden, Kent. He attended Homewood School. He graduated from Goldsmiths College in 1988. His work was included in both Frieze, an exhibition organized by Damien Hirst in 1988, and East Country Yard, a warehouse exhibition organized by Henry Bond and Sarah Lucas in 1990.
Hume's earliest notable works are his "door paintings", life-size representations of hospital doors. These proved a critical success, being shown in Germany and the United States, as well as attracting the attention of collector Charles Saatchi. Hume's work was included in the 1995 exhibition Brilliant!, a showcase of work by YBA artists. In 1997 his work was included in Sensation, a touring show of the Charles Saatchi art collection at the Royal Academy, London.
Hume abandoned doors in the mid-1990s, turning to paintings in household gloss paint on aluminum panel, for these often used appropriated images, including pictures of celebrities (e.g. DJ Tony Blackburn) and animals. Their forms and colours are dramatically simplified, with people being reduced to just two or three colours. Snowman (1996), for example, is made up of three shades of red, showing a circle on top of a larger circle against a lighter background. At first, Hume used mainly bright colours, but later pieces have used more muted tones. He represented Britain at the 1999 Venice Biennale, where he showed his Water series, a number of superimposed line drawings of women (again, these were gloss paint on aluminium).
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